Episode 569
In today’s episode Makua Rothman discusses surfing Waimea at age 8, his maternal lineage to King Kamehameha, songwriting as a catharsis to process childhood trauma, how his World Title count was limi…
Published on 3 months ago
Episode 568
In today’s episode early surf icon Joey Cabell talks through transitioning from solid redwood boards (which he purchased from his shoeshine earnings) through Balsa to being the first Polyurethane foa…
Published on 3 months, 2 weeks ago
Episode 567
In today’s show Tom Carroll reveals a little known spite that fueled his competitive drive since adolescence, how he’s learned to create a gap between thought and action, why success is intrinsically…
Published on 4 months ago
Episode 566
In today’s show Nathan Hedge shares tales from joining his heroes at age 13 on The Search for a month in Indo, Derek Hynd’s highly unusual (and effective) methods to prepare him for life on Tour, how…
Published on 4 months ago
Episode 565
In today’s show Steve Hawk shares lessons gleaned from the world’s sweetest mom, explains why justified resentment may be the root of all evil, notes that the past is constantly in the process of bei…
Published on 4 months, 2 weeks ago
Episode 564
Dick Metz is back to discuss the documentary, now streaming, that chronicles his early world travel and the near death experience that was the impetus for the three year sojourn. He recounts early da…
Published on 4 months, 2 weeks ago
Episode 563
In today’s show, surf photography great Sean Davey shares how his first memory of the ocean was of his mother in the tube, his favorite photo he’s ever taken, the legacy of Lane and her imprint of ki…
Published on 5 months ago
Episode 562
In today’s show, aerial and floater pioneer Davey Smith reflects on Greenough’s early influence, how selling ice cream help fund his pro surf career, Russell Short’s hypnotic tube prowess, introducin…
Published on 5 months, 2 weeks ago
Episode 561
In today’s show Hall of Famer Ricky Carroll talks about getting punched out in Hawaii, posing as a kneeboarder to make it to the World Championships, being the now longest running surfboard shaper in…
Published on 5 months, 4 weeks ago
Episode 560
In today’s show Kelly Richards talks about leaving Arkansas at age 13 to chase surf in South Carolina, the rare opportunity to own a historically persevered 50 year old surf shop, raising a surf prod…
Published on 6 months ago
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