Episode Details

Maui's Upcountry: Why Most Visitors Skip It and Shouldn't

Who this episode is for: Anyone visiting Maui who's only planning to drive through Upcountry on the way to Haleakalā and doesn't realize it's worth stopping for on its own.

What you'll learn: What Upcountry Maui actually is, where to eat and shop in Makawao, family-friendly stops like Surfing Goat Dairy and Kula Botanical Garden, the Maui Pineapple Tour, Ulupalakua Ranch, and how to build Upcountry into a half or full day.

Places discussed:

• Upcountry Maui (Kula, Makawao, Hali'imaile)
• Makawao
• Kula Botanical Garden
• Ali'i Kula Lavender Farm
• Hali'imaile
• Ulupalakua Ranch
• Haleakalā (referenced as the usual reason people pass through)

Activities discussed:

• Driving through Upcountry (2,000–4,000 ft elevation, paniolo/cowboy culture)
• Shopping and wandering in Makawao
• Booking a Flytographer photo shoot and pairing it with a lei po'o
• Touring Surfing Goat Dairy (casual farm tour, evening/milking tour, Saturday grand tour, cheese flight and truffle tasting add-ons)
• Visiting Kula Botanical Garden
• Visiting Ali'i Kula Lavender Farm
• Taking the Maui Pineapple Tour (basic tour, tour with lunch, farm and feast with dinner at Hali'imaile General Store, planting experience)
• Driving to Ulupalakua Ranch

Restaurants discussed:

• T. Komodo Store & Bakery (Makawao) — open since 1916; cream puffs and stick donuts; closes at 1 PM and sells out early; closed Wednesdays and Sundays; aim to arrive by 9–10 AM
• Maui Cookie Lady (Makawao) — white chunk mac nut is the best-seller (featured in Condé Nast Traveler, Bon Appétit, Forbes); also recommends salted caramel bliss and the limited-edition Waipoli Twilight (dark chocolate, rum, black cherry, blood orange)
• Hali'imaile General Store — dinner destination on the Maui Pineapple Tour's farm and feast option
• Ulupalakua Ranch Store and Grill — burgers made from ranch-raised beef, venison, and elk; store open Tuesday–Sunday, 10 AM–5 PM; grill 11 AM–4 PM, last call 3:30 PM; closed Mondays

Shopping discussed:

• Holo Holo Surf (Makawao) — Hawaiian print clothing for the whole family, Marcie's favorite shop on the island
• Haku Maui — makes lei po'o (the correct term for what's often called a "flower crown"); good to pair with a photo shoot
• Maui Pineapple Store — even if the full tour doesn't fit your schedule, worth a stop for Maui Gold pineapple and merchandise

Marcie's recommendations:

• Don't just drive straight back down after Haleakalā sunrise — stop in Upcountry on the way
• Get to Komodo's by 9–10 AM at the latest for cream puffs and stick donuts before they sell out; check their Wed/Sun closure against your schedule
• Holo Holo Surf is worth a real browse, not just a walk-past
• Check Surfing Goat Dairy's current tour options before you go, since the offerings have expanded significantly since a 2023 ownership change
• Double-check Ali'i Kula Lavender Farm's hours before building it into your day — open Friday–Monday only, 10 AM–4 PM, last entry 3:45 PM, $5/person entry
• The Maui Pineapple Tour (starting around $95) is worth it, especially for families or anyone wanting real agricultural context, not just a postcard version of Hawaii
• Even a quick stop at the Maui Pineapple Store is worthwhile if the full tour doesn't fit
• Factor in Ulupalakua Ranch's Monday closure if coming down from a Monday sunrise
• Easiest way to fit Upcountry in: pair it with a Haleakalā trip and stop at Komodo's plus a Makawao wander on the way down
• For a full day: pineapple tour in the morning, lunch at Ulupalakua, afternoon in Makawao
• A rental car is required — no way around it
• Upcountry weather