Episode Details

This Episodes Questions

Brians Questions:

Hey Gents, 
As always love the podcast. I just upgrade from a bosch jobsite table saw to a general international 50-220 hybrud thats about 20 years old. It is in great shape and I want to keep it that way. What are some general maintenance things you would initially do with an older saw such as this and what would you do going forward to keep it in tip top shape? 
Thanks again! Tyler

You guys often talk about pocket hole screws being an easy way to fasten boards together. I find I often have the boards move on me and misalign the joints when I use pocket hole screws. Do you experience this / how do you prevent it? Especially when one of the boards is too long to feasibly clamp it well. Tyler

Guys Questions:

Hey guys… Indianapolis native woodworker/DIYer here.  Second time to ask a question and unfortunately is one you have probably answered before, but hopefully there is a slight twist to this one.
I’m looking to refinish a dinning table that is currently made of oak with a light yellower stain with a clear coat that is knicked up and scratched. The wife would like for the table to be black. I’m interested in using Target Coatings EM6600 - Raven black pigmented laquer. I’ve never used the pigmented laquer and hopefully it’s easy enough for a DIY guy to do a decent job. Couple questions about this:
1. Do I need to sand the old finish off or use a chemical to soften the finish and then sand it off, or can a pigmented laquer go on over and the finish since it is covering over the old colors completely? Or instead of sanding can you use Target coatings HSF5000 primer, surfaced, and grain filler over the top of the old finish?
2. If I do need to sand it at least to scuff it up for the primer to adhere how far back do I need to sand it back? Is it just enough to rough it up, or do I need to be all the way back to bare wood?
3. Lastly has anyone ever used the grain filler primer from Target Coatings? Am I wasting my money on this product? Wood grain showing through the black finish isn’t the end of the world, but if we could have a completely smooth finish and little to know grain causing a “feeling” on the table that would be preferable. And maybe we would get that from the laquer building up already.
Thanks for the awesome podcast. I’ve learned a ton from you all!
Thanks Jason

Im 62 years old been  woodworking for years and would love to use sketch up to help design and build projects. I know that there are versions dedicated to woodworking. My question is do you guys use sketch up? What version do you use?  I know there are subscription fees. Im concerned about the learning curve. Ive watched some YouTube videos  Im a small hobbyist shop doing small projects, built ins and i do a lot of design just in my head. Would love to be able to design and refine projects on the computer before i start building.  Appreciate any advice on beginning this. Thank you, Phil

Huys Questions:

G'day guys , from Australia. long time listener and I finally have a question.
An auction for a closing business appeared on my Instagram feed and it was nearby so I bid and won around 3000 square metres of veneer (roughly 32,000 square feet or 3/4 of an acre.)for the princely sum of $56 AUD or $39 USD.
The veneers were shopsawn in house and are 1.8mm - 2.4mm  with some of the walnut 5000mm long and 600mm wide the species also include.
- Walnut burl.
- Yellow poplar burl.
-Maple
- Pacific maple.
- European Walnut
- European oak
- Silky Oak
- QLD Pepperwood
- Palisander Rosewood
- Tasmanian blackwood
- Fiddleback Tasmanian Blackwood
- Blackbutt
It's a lifetime supply for me and I have already started to flatten and sort some of the stock , which brings me to my first question.
The poplar burl is extremely dry, crinkled, and bubbly. I sprayed it with a homemade ven