Episode Details

Justen Sjong (The Climbing Sensei) returns to the podcast to discuss the unique challenges of being tall or short in climbing. We talk about the disadvantages tall climbers face, how injury risk and training volume change with size, mindset shifts for both tall and short climbers, why climbing is inherently unfair, practical tips, and much more.

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Show Notes:

http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/justen-sjong-returns

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:02:48) – Gardening

(00:04:04) – The Red

(00:08:17) – Introducing our topic

(00:12:34) – Shaming

(00:18:17) – Challenges for tall climbers

(00:23:46) – Injuries & training volume

(00:28:39) – Momentum

(00:37:55) – Foot strength & stiff shoes

(00:51:26) – Finding your own beta

(00:57:58) – Maximizing your reach

(00:59:56) – Grades

(01:10:43) – Finding the best beta

(01:15:36) – Fairness

(01:18:07) – One-foot drill

(01:21:04) – Expressing challenges

(01:22:50) – Grizzly bear

(01:24:42) – Mindset shifts for short climbers

(01:31:02) – Seeking street credit

(01:37:33) – Unclassic climbs

(01:38:23) – More tips for short climbers

(01:42:26) – Chunking down moves

(01:48:35) – Should short & tall climbers train differently?

(01:51:04) – Body types

(01:55:52) – Who do you want to be?

(02:01:09) – Can’t vs. yet

(02:02:11) – Justen’s climbing update

(02:08:40) – Wrap up