Episode Details

Touted as one of the most beautiful places in the world, there really is something special about Banff. Combining the striking stature of the Rockies with the snug, quaint charms of small-town Canada, it’s the sheer splendour of accessible and abundant wilderness that casts you under its spell. Just as visitors to Sedona routinely talk about “the healing energy” that seeps from its stones, Banff also brags about its revitalising powers. It’s widely considered as a sacred place, ever since indigenous people were drawn to the region thousands of years ago, taking to the healing waters of the natural hot springs and gathering various plants for medicinal purposes.   

It was First Nations guides who introduced Europeans to the area in the 1800s, and by the 1880s the natural hot springs on Sulphur Mountain were a wildly popular Victorian tourist attraction. It was the railway that opened Banff’s treasures to the world.  Mercifully, the Canadian government had the vision and wisdom to safeguard nature’s riches by creating Canada’s first national park in 1885, Banff National Park. 

They run a very tight ship in this town. To live in Banff, you must be an eligible resident. This generally means your primary daily employment must be located within the Banff National Park boundaries. The permanent population is only 9000. There are no vacation homes. Buying property for holiday use or weekend getaways is strictly prohibited. Even if you own property, you must actively work in the park or rent it to someone who does. Similarly, residential property cannot be used for short-term rentals (like Airbnb) unless the property is owner-occupied and licensed specifically as a Bed and Breakfast. Perhaps some over-crowded but underpopulated New Zealand tourist towns should consider this model, like Tekapo. The main artery of Banff Ave is a swanky tourist mecca, lined with lodge-like hotels, many built in Rocky Mountain style, with the accent on lodgepole pines, limestone, and steeply pitched roofs. I love how all the side streets are named after local animals. I even saw roaming elk prancing down Elk Street.  

The best time to visit Banff depends on whether you snow-dappled vistas, wildflowers or larch season. I suggest the spring months are best, with show-mopped peaks and thinner crowds. Wildflower season runs from July to August, but it’s chocka with visitors taking advantage of the warm weather for high-alpine hiking. “Larch madness” is a short, specific window from mid-September to early October, when the larch tree needles turn a brilliant gold. The beautiful natural display draws dense crowds to popular trails like Larch Valley. 

After alighting from two ravishing days aboard the Rocky Mountaineer from Vancouver, it fast became apparent that my short time in this mountain oasis would not be enough to do full justice to its surrounding wonders. But here’s a round-up on some tried-and-true must dos.

For the view of views, do not leave town before you have taken a ride to the rooftop of Sulphur Mountain, on the Banff Gondola. The eight-minute ride to the summit of 7,486-foot mountain delivers a horizon-wide alpine panorama. Six distinct mountain ranges unfurl their grandeur before you, along with the Bow River Valley and the town of Banff itself. Beyond the top station, the boardwalk trail climbs even higher, leading you to Sanson Peak. Alongside savouring the snow-flecked scenery in the heart of the Rockies, I was also intrigued by the remnants of the Cosmic Ray Station, perched on top of Sulphur Mountain. This throwback to the 1950s became Canada’s most important cosmic ray observatory, contributing to our understanding of how the sun effects the earth’s environment. 

Needless to say, even in summer the mountaintop temps can be chilly. If you need a warm-up, just below the gondola base station, Banff Upper Hot Springs will put some pep in your step. Discovered by Canada's First Nati