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Dermatologist Dr. Muneeb Shah returns to Skin Anarchy to break down what actually works in skincare, how GLP-1 medications affect the skin, the truth about trending ingredients, and how to spot credible science communication online. Below are the biggest questions answered in this episode.

Why did Dr. Muneeb Shah start his own skincare brand, Remedy?

After years of educating patients one at a time in clinic and then millions online, Dr. Shah saw a gap between how dermatologists actually treat skin and how most products are formulated. Remedy was built to combine multiple ingredients backed by evidence into single formulas, control ingredient sourcing, and remove emerging allergens as the science evolves. He frames it as the natural next chapter of his work: "Content was a hill at one point, and this is my new hill... building a brand that really becomes a legacy brand."

Why do so many skincare products feel identical?

Because many of them are. Dr. Shah explains that contract manufacturers offer white label stock formulas, so any brand with capital and distribution can put its label on an existing product and launch it. "It's not hard to launch products if you have the capital and the distribution network to support it," he says. "It's hard to launch good products." When an ingredient trends, brands rush to license the same stock formula, which is why the market floods with nearly identical products around every viral ingredient. Remedy's policy is to never use white label formulas and to start from a patient need rather than a trend.

Which skincare ingredients are actually backed by science?

According to Dr. Shah, the strongest evidence still sits with the tried and true ingredients: retinoids like retinol and tretinoin, alpha hydroxy acids like glycolic acid, select peptides but not all of them, ceramides for the skin barrier, niacinamide, and azelaic acid. His formulation philosophy anchors everything around these proven actives first, with marketing layered on only afterward, never the reverse. "The products have to be really great products that people will use forever, and they have to use ingredients that truly have the efficacy studies on them."

Is PDRN worth the hype?

Dr. Shah does not dismiss PDRN, noting it has real traction in East Asia, where dermatologists champion it, particularly in injectable form. "I'm not saying that doesn't have validity or evidence. Time will tell if this is something that stands the test of time." His caution is about how trends work: brands slap labels on stock PDRN formulas to ride the moment, and an ingredient trending is not the same as an ingredient being proven.

What does "next generation biomimetic surfactant technology" actually mean?

Usually nothing. Dr. Shah points out that "they're using the same surfactants everybody's got in their formulas... no one's inventing new surfactant technologies." Terms like this are marketing language designed to make a formula seem more advanced or worth a higher price, and even sophisticated consumers fall for it because there is not enough public knowledge about what these formula components actually do.

What do GLP-1 medications like Ozempic do to your skin?

Rapid weight loss from GLP-1 medications can outpace the skin's ability to retract, leading to crepiness, laxity, and undulations where fat volume was lost beneath otherwise healthy skin. Dr. Shah notes dermatologists saw similar effects with gastric bypass, but it was rare enough that it never needed a name. That is no longer the case: "Now that it's 12 percent of the population, we have to really contend with this."

What skincare should you use while on a GLP-1?

Dr. Shah recommends topicals that support collagen throughout the weight loss period: a retinoid