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Max Ayrton - "Alternative" Climbing Moves Are SO In
Description
Max is a World Climbing routesetter from Great Britain who most recently set for the bouldering world series in Bern 2026 and will be setting for Salt Lake in October as well. In this episode, we’ll learn about hold shaping, what happened when the Bern finals boulders got leaked early online, whether world cup routesetters can actually climb the boulders they set, and we’ll hear about his extremely hot take on “alternative” climbing moves...I had no idea that he was the infamous cartwheel boulder setter.
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Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:21 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:28 - Climbing, competing, setting background
7:00 - World climbing setting levels
10:44 - Bern Finals boulders got leaked
15:24 - AUDIENCE Q: Is it easier setting in a climate-controlled venue?
18:24 - What is the perfect round?
22:02 - AUDIENCE Q: What guidance does world climbing give for setters?
24:19 - Forerunning process
29:26 - Setting "unconventional" moves
34:46 - OMG!! This is the OG cartwheel guy!!
38:00 - The divergence of indoor/comp climbing from outdoors
42:34 - Zones vs tops point change
44:53 - Starting Contact Holds with Alex Waterhouse
52:55 - AUDIENCE Q: What's Alex Waterhouse up to?!
54:26 - AUDIENCE Q: Is there any consideration for the belayer when setting?
59:21 - AUDIENCE Q: Planning vs improvising problems?
1:00:45 - AUDIENCE Q: Will the Christmas Yule log comp be on this year?
1:02:29 - AUDIENCE Q: Favorite member of house 51?
1:03:21 - Words of wisdom and where to find Max