Episode Details

For Haitians living in the Big Easy, many things remind them of home, from Second Line parades to the architecture to the food. Red beans and rice, boudin, jambalaya… all these iconic Louisiana dishes have connections to Haiti.

That’s because Haitian migrants profoundly shaped New Orleans culture. At the turn of the nineteenth century, enslaved people on the island of St Domingue broke free from their chains. Led by Toussaint L’Ouverture, they snatched their freedom from the French. They renamed the country Ayiti, the Indigenous Taino name for the land.

This not only sparked the fire of freedom and Black liberation movements around the world, but also had huge consequences for other French territories. White people fleeing Haiti found familiarity in Louisiana’s French culture and the plantation economy. Large groups of Black people, enslaved and free, also arrived with them, boosting Louisiana’s sugarcane economy. New Orleans became one of the Blackest cities in the country.

“63% of Crescent City inhabitants were now Black. Among the nation’s major cities, only Charleston, with the 53% majority, was comparable,” said Zella Palmer, a food historian at Dillard University.

The influx dramatically transformed New Orleans’ culture and especially its food, giving it a Haitian twist that you can still taste today.

“Haitian cuisine is the most underrated and unappreciated cuisine in the Western Hemisphere,” said Palmer.

In this episode of Gravy from the Southern Foodways Alliance, Tesfaye gives Haitian cuisine its flowers. She takes us through the history of how Haiti helped shaped New Orleans’ iconic cuisine and introduces us to the modern chefs in the city who are bringing Haitian food back to the forefront.

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Eva Tesfaye is the lead reporter for WWNO’s Coastal Desk. Before joining WWNO, she covered food and agriculture for Harvest Public Media and the Mississippi River Basin Ag and Water Desk. Eva was also a producer for NPR’s daily science podcast, Shortwave. A graduate of Columbia University, she started her journalism career as an NPR Kroc Fellow. She grew up moving around Africa and has lived in Uganda, Rwanda, Sudan, South Africa, and Kenya.