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Jackie Hueftle - The MASTERMIND Behind PCL Routesetting
Description
Jackie was the routesetting director at the Pro Climbing League (PCL) comp and is also the co-founder of Kilter! In this episode, we’ll learn more about the unique challenges that came with setting for PCL, why she thinks it’s important to have more women setting for women’s comps, and how YOU could maybe try climbing the same exact boulders set at PCL.
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Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:20 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:00 - Still cleaning up from PCL
5:42 - Interesting Kilter free-standing option
7:34 - Getting into climbing, setting, and Kilter
13:38 - The political path to becoming an IFSC setter
15:34 - Starting the Woman Up Comps
20:00 - What grade do you need to climb to be a route setter?
22:31 - AUDIENCE Q: How did you build the PCL routesetting team?
28:46 - What made setting different for PCL
32:09 - How to get separation
36:30 - AUDIENCE Q: Was this speed bouldering, was women's setting too easy?
41:57 - Is sanding down holds fair?!
43:47 - Why it's hard to calibrate for female competitors
51:16 - How boulder changeover worked
55:37 - The slab that didn't get shown
58:24 - Different competition strategies
1:03:27 - AUDIENCE Q: Harder to gauge setting than World Cup?
1:04:18 - AUDIENCE Q: Did the setting matter more than a World Cup?
1:07:04 - AUDIENCE Q: Mixed gender events in the future?
1:09:13 - AUDIENCE Q: idea - 2 betas per boulder?
1:11:12 - AUDIENCE Q: Are setters more impressed or annoyed by beta breaks?
1:17:23 - AUDIENCE Q: What makes Kilter stand out?
1:22:30 - Underrated hold?
1:25:02 - Shoutouts and long work hours
1:26:51 - YOU can reset the PCL climbs and experience them!