Episode Details

When I visited Paris in 1993, I had been helping my parents sell my grandmothers house. My father said "we are taking you and Sandra to Tour D'Argent." THe whole story for another time.

My father spoke French to the Sommelier and asked for the 1945 Lafite Rothschild...an epic of the epics. At that time, it was $3,500. As the Sommelier presented the bottle in it's wicker carrier, the age of the crust and the caking of the dust was admiarable. There was considerable ullage (the air gap bewteen the cork and the wine).

In French, my father suggests "Open it, it is fine, I buy it, if is over the hill, you buy it "...the reply? "Non, Monsieur"

He order the 1962 Cos D'Estrournel.

So when I heard the Techinical Director, Dominique Arangoits was in town, I had to sit for a podcast. I can guarantee you that my French is much better now.

Dominique Arangoits wasn't raised on grand cru vineyards or surrounded by the opulent châteaux that so often feature in Bordeaux lore. Instead, he began his story in the rugged Basque country, a region where the mountains meet the Spanish border and family tradition meant tending to a small patch of vines for homemade wine. There's something poetic in how his early memories, flavored by the modest vineyard his grandfather cared for, foreshadowed a journey that would lead him to the highest echelons of wine science and estate management.

In this episode, Dominique's story unfolds with the humility and curiosity of someone who didn't set out to be a winemaker, but who became one by way of chance and passion. He recounts to Paul Kalemkiarian how agronomy studies in Bordeaux presented the fork in the road—that pivotal moment when Dominique first glimpsed the bridge between science and art, and realized that winemaking could be not just a career, but a lifelong passion. From there, the journey took him abroad to Hungary's Tokaj region, where he learned the complexities of building a winery from scratch; returning to France, he brought those lessons to Cos d'Estournel, entrusted with one of the most ambitious projects in Bordeaux: imagining an entirely new winery "from an empty sheet."

But this episode isn't just about technical prowess or the mechanics of grape growing. Listen closely and you'll hear Dominique's profound reverence for terroir—a concept he elevates above all else, even above the winemaker himself. To Dominique, the role of the grape variety is not to dominate, but to "read" the land, allowing the subtle, emotional taste of the place to emerge in the bottle. When faced with climate change, he doesn't lament, but adapts, observing how today's warmer vintages make Cabernet Sauvignon easier to ripen and forever alter the definition of what makes a "classic" Bordeaux.

Throughout the conversation, Paul Kalemkiarian pushes Dominique with questions about politics and classification—why second growths matter, whether the age-old Bordeaux rankings will ever shift, and how a winery's image is forged not just by legacy but by ambition. Dominique's candor shines as he describes what distinguishes a big wine: it's not pleasure alone, but the emotion and even awe that sometimes make time stop, elevating wine to the level of art.

Listeners are brought into the intimate rituals of blending wine, tasting berries, and understanding the unique personality of every block in the vineyard. You'll learn why no single measure tells a winemaker when to harvest—taste, acidity, skin thickness, and memory all combine in the delicate act of coaxing the best from the land. The story is peppered with wry anecdotes about natural wines, discussions of organic practice, and the challenges of balancing tradition with evolution.

The episode invites you not just to think about wine, but to feel it: as Dominique says, great wine should take your hand and guide you on a journey, even sometimes through uncertainty, before return