Episode Details

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Weekend Warrior Dusty Millar is making it work! In this thoughtful convo we explore:

• Pros and Cons of a 7-on 7-off schedule
• Shift work 
• Training without a climbing gym
• Yoga for climbing (and life)
• Getting better because he can’t climb all the time 
• The power of intentionality 
• Overcoming decision fatigue 
• Working with Neil Gresham
• Training pitfalls 
• 25-second hypertrophy hangs 
• The benefit of doing the unsexy stuff 

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• PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

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Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

 

00:00 Intentionality: The Weekend Warrior Mindset (Cold Open)   00:57 Meet Dusty Millar: Shift-Worker Climber From Adelaide   03:46 Climbing in Australia: Adelaide, Arapiles & the Grampians   06:49 Dusty’s Background: Marines, Tattooing, Mining, Counseling & Yoga   07:39 The 7-On/7-Off Roster: Life on Day vs Night Shift   17:07 Training Without a Climbing Gym: Yoga, Calisthenics & Fingerboard   21:07 Why Climbing Hooks Us: Flow State, Focus & Community   26:56 Sponsor Break + Free Finger Training Clinic Plug   29:18 Yoga Meets Climbing: Breathwork, Meditation & Mindset   33:46 Home Weeks: Heat, Board-and-Dinner Crew, and Outdoor Project Days   36:20 Goals & Grit: Chasing 29/30 and V9 as a “Blue Collar” Climber   37:26 Coaching Tools & Why Neil Gresham’s Plans Stand Out   39:55 Inside a 16-Week Training Phase: Structure, Options, and Decision Fatigue   41:35 Training Mindset: Listening to Your Body, Managing Expectations, Keeping the Joy   43:48 Outdoor Days & Current Projects: ‘Boulder Problems on Ropes’ + Thailand Trip   47:51 Lifestyle Levers: Catering, Diet Swings, and Eating Mindfully   49:50 What Training Works Best: Alternating Power/Endurance + Long Repeater Hangs   53:45 Endurance When You Can’t Get to a Rope Gym + Adelaide Crag Access   56:42 Host’s V8 Side Quest, Injury Fears, and Staying Resilient in Your 40s   59:00 Prehab, Antagonist Work, and the 7-On/7-Off Rhythm (Plus Farewell)   01:03:03 Wrap-Up & Host Update: Red River Gorge Day, Training Block, and Patreon Plugs  

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Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. A hero indeed!

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Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow and @ryandevlinclimbing

 

Follow Dusty @nothing_but_hardwork

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This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

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