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Dr. Tyler Nelson: Stronger Wrists, Stronger Climbing
Description
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In this episode focused on all things wrists, Dr. Tyler Nelson brings the science and application, covering:
- Why there’s been a steady rise of wrist injuries in climbers
- How to train up wrist flexion strength to perform better on slopers
- The reason bigger holds can be more injurious
- Google won't show you the most common climber injury
- Wrist Wrench vs. Rolling Thunder
- Set and rep scheme for wrist training
- To tape or not to tape?
- Recovery time frames for wrist injuries
- How to return to hard climbing faster after an injury
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And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals
Check out Tyler's course on wrist injury and rehab, and his many other fantastic courses: https://www.camp4humanperformance.com/store
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Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)
00:00 Introduction and Overview
00:27 Welcome and Guest Introduction
00:44 Understanding Wrist Injuries in Climbers
02:56 Personal Experiences and Injury Management
04:32 Training and Strengthening Techniques
46:24 Managing Wrist Injuries in Climbing
47:39 Personal Experiences with Wrist Pain
50:09 Common Wrist Injuries in Climbers
57:48 Recovery and Rehabilitation Strategies
01:15:23 Training Tips and Final Thoughts
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Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega.
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This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in part