Episode Details

Retinoids are one of the most effective ingredients in dermatology as well as one of the most misunderstood. In this episode, consultant dermatologists Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid break down exactly what retinoids are, how they work, and how to use them correctly - for the best results, without irritation.

From prescription tretinoin to over-the-counter retinol, Emma and Ellie explain the differences between each type, what the evidence actually shows, and how to build up tolerance safely. You’ll also learn what results to expect and when - including collagen changes, pigmentation improvement, and the famous “retinoid glow.”

Whether you’re starting a retinoid for the first time or fine-tuning your routine, this episode gives you clear, practical, dermatologist-approved guidance.

What You’ll Learn

• The difference between tretinoin, retinol, retinal, and retinyl esters
• Why prescription retinoids work faster and more effectively
• How to minimise dryness, redness, and purge-related breakouts
• Why circadian skincare matters (repair vs protection cycles)
• The timelines for glow, pigmentation improvement, and collagen changes
• How to adjust your routine seasonally and for sensitive skin
• Why tretinoin is used for acne and long-term skin ageing

Golden Takeaways

• It’s not if retinoids work - it’s when.
• Prescription tretinoin has the strongest evidence for skin-ageing benefits.
• Consistency beats strength: build up slowly for long-term tolerance.
• Most irritation is preventable with buffering, moisturiser, and methodical use.
• Use retinoids at night to support the skin’s natural repair cycle.

Klira - Founded by Dr Emma Craythorne, Klira is a bespoke luxury skincare formula prescribed by dermatologists. You may hear it mentioned from time to time on the podcast and if you want to find out more head over to klira.skin

Follow & Connect

Instagram: @afterhoursskinclinic

Email: ahsc@raconteur.tv

Producer: Ella Blaxill

Series Editor: Eve Streeter

Music by Simon Elms.

This is a Raconteur Studios Production. 

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