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Coach Tom Randall: Training Strength for Endurance, How to Self-Assess Weaknesses, Max Hang Testing, Crack 101, and other Listener Questions
Description
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In this special Listener Q&A episode, Coach Tom Randall explores:
- Improving endurance by getting stronger
- How to self assess weaknesses
- Is there such thing as “active rest”?
- Developing beginner crack skills
- Periodization for gym climbers
- Which crack size is the best to train
- What standard tests should climbers do
- How often should we test finger strength
- Building a cheap crack trainer at home
- Correlation between finger strength and climbing grade
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BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:
- PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.
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- ForceBoard: A better way to train fingers. Portable, accurate, and created to train finger strength and endurance exactly how YOU need it. Score $10 off and support the show by using code STRUGGLE10 at checkout.
- Nature Climbing: Beautifully crafted lifting edges and hangboards that feature real granite edges for improved texture and skin conditioning. Sustainably crafted works of art, I love them so much! Get 20% off everything at natureclimbing.com using code STRUGGLE.
And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals
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Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)
00:42 Listener Questions Overview 02:20 Personal Climbing Journey 03:22 Reconnecting with Tom Randall 04:36 Tom Randall's Training Insights 15:21 Self-Assessing Climbing Weaknesses 25:37 Active Rest and Recovery Tips 30:31 Learning Crack Climbing 36:54 Periodization for Gym Climbers 39:05 Adapting to Training and Periodization 42:03 Indoor vs. Outdoor Climbing 45:09 Crack Climbing Techniques and Training 47:46 Testing Metrics and Their Importance 53:52 Urban Crack Climbing and Unique Locations 55:30 Listener Q&A: Training and Climbing Insights 01:07:49 Encouraging Gyms to Set Crack Boulders 01:11:18 Conclusion and Bonus Content Announcement-
Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega.
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Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow
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This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty al