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Topic: Inside Italy’s Shadow Economy
In a second-floor apartment in the southern Italian town of Santeramo in Colle, a middle-aged woman sat in a black-padded chair this summer, hard at work at her kitchen table. She carefully stitched a sophisticated woolen coat, the sort of style that will sell for 800 to 2,000 euros ($935 to $2,340) when it arrives in stores this month as part of the fall and winter collection of MaxMara, the Italian luxury fashion brand.
在義大利南部城鎮聖埃拉莫因科萊一棟公寓的二樓,一名中年婦女今年夏天坐在黑色軟墊的椅子上,在廚房用桌前辛勤地工作著。她以針線細心縫製一件精緻的羊毛外套,這個款式本月送進商店時,標價800至2,000歐元(935至2,340美元)不等,是義大利奢侈品牌MaxMara秋冬系列的一部分。
But the woman, who asked not to be named for fear that she could lose her livelihood, receives just 1 euro from the factory that employs her for each meter of fabric she completes.
不過,擔心可能因此失去生計而不願透露姓名的這名女性,每完成1公尺面料,只能從雇用她的工廠那裡拿到1歐元。
“It takes me about one hour to sew one meter, so about four to five hours to complete an entire coat,” said the woman, who works without a contract, or insurance, and is paid in cash on a monthly basis. “I try to do two coats per day.”
這名女性說:「我大概1小時縫1公尺,大約4到5小時完成一整件外套。我試著每天做兩件大衣。」 她的工作沒有聘雇合約,也不提供保險,僅按月支領現金。
The unregulated work she completes in her apartment is outsourced to her from a local factory that also manufactures outerwear for some of the best-known names in the luxury business, including Louis Vuitton and Fendi. The most she has ever earned, she said, was 24 euros ($28) for an entire coat.
她在公寓內完成,未受任何規範的這份工作,是當地一家工廠外包給她的,該廠還替奢侈品界另一些知名品牌製造外套,包括路易威登和芬迪。她說,她所獲得的最高收入,是一整件外套24歐元(合28美元)。
Homework — working from home or a small workshop as opposed to in a factory — is a cornerstone of the fast-fashion supply chain. It is particularly prevalent in countries such as India, Bangladesh, Vietnam and China, where millions of low-paid and predominantly female homeworkers are some of the most unprotected in the industry, because of their irregular employment status, isolation and lack of legal recourse.
家庭代工─ 在家中或小型工作室而非工廠工作─已成為快速時尚供應鏈的基石。在印度、孟加拉、越南和中國這些國家,家庭代工尤其普遍,數以百萬計,且主要是女性的家庭代工從業人員 ,因就業狀況不穩定,孤立和欠缺法律追索權,屬於該行業中最缺乏保護的一群。
That similar cond
Published on 5 months ago
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