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#80 Lexicon, Boldness, and the Long Game — Training Smarter and Peaking Later
Season 1 Episode 80
What does it take to climb your hardest route at 50—and then hold the rope while someone else pushes that same line even further?
For Neil Gresham, that moment came on Lexicon, a bold and beautiful E11 route he developed and climbed later in life. In this conversation, Neil shares the full story—from discovering the line in the Lake District to the deep personal shift that allowed him to reach a new peak, years after he thought he’d already hit it.
We also talk about what it was like to support a rare flash attempt by another world-class climber (whose recent film on Lexicon just dropped), and how that moment made Neil reflect on performance, legacy, and the long game.
But this episode goes far beyond a single climb.
We explore:
- Why Neil climbed his hardest routes after 45
- The nutrition and training strategies that helped him recover faster in his 50s than in his 20s
- What most athletes misunderstand about aging
- Coaching climbers into their 70s—including how he succeeded working with Rob Matheson
- The mindset shift that helped him let go of pressure and finally enjoy the process again
Whether you’re a climber or not, Neil’s story is about curiosity, adaptation, and staying sharp—mentally and physically—as the years go by.
References & Resources:
🎥 Lexicon: The Story of a Climb (Neil’s own film):
https://vimeo.com/ondemand/e11lexicon
📘 Learn more about Neil’s coaching and training programs:
https://www.neilgreshamtraining.com/
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Published on 6 months ago