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Alan Watts: Cheater, Pariah, Hero. Following Your Heart and Tuning Out the Haters

Alan Watts: Cheater, Pariah, Hero. Following Your Heart and Tuning Out the Haters

Episode 239 Published 11 months, 3 weeks ago
Description

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Meet me at ICF this year, July 10-13! https://www.climbersfestival.org/

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In this episode, legendary climber and developer Alan Watts explores:
  • How he inadvertently hazed me on my first Smith climb
  • The joy and fallout of being the father of sport climbing in the U.S.
  • The stunning Watts route that caused a chain reaction in climbing
  • The route J.B. Tribout actually stole from him (it wasn't Just Do It)
  • The wild story of how Just Do It actually came to be bolted
  • What are the "rules" of climbing anyway?
  • Putting Smith Rock on the map, and what makes it so rad
  • Being labeled a cheater by his heroes and peers
  • Balancing performance, health, and joy as an older climber
  • How to have more fun as a climber right now

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BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

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And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

 

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Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega.

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Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

  • 00:25 Legendary Guest: Alan Watts
  • 00:51 Memorable Climbing Experiences
  • 01:30 Alan Watts' Impact on Climbing
  • 02:02 The Evolution of Sport Climbing
  • 02:57 Smith Rock: The Birthplace of Sport Climbing
  • 04:10 Personal Stories and Reflections
  • 05:12 Upcoming Events and Announcements
  • 06:05 Conversation with Alan Watts Begins
  • 07:03 Recollections of Climbing at Smith Rock
  • 14:10 Challenges and Struggles in Climbing
  • 19:53 The Evolution of Climbing Ethics and Techniques
  • 33:19 The Iconic Route: Just Do It
  • 38:49 The Turning Point in US Climbing
  • 39:2
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