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311: Hair Color
Description
We dive deep into the chemistry behind hair color, explaining why blonde hair turns brassy and how different color formulations interact with your hair structure.
• Natural hair color comes from melanin - eumelanin (brown/black tones) and pheomelanin (red/golden tones)
• Hair structure consists of cuticle (outer layer), cortex (middle layer with pigment), and medulla (inner layer)
• Permanent hair color uses ammonia and peroxide to open cuticle, remove natural pigment, and deposit new color
• Demi-permanent color is gentler with no ammonia, slightly lifting the cuticle without removing natural pigment
• Semi-permanent color simply coats the outer hair layer, perfect for adding shine or subtle tones
• Different developer volumes (10, 20, 30, 40) serve specific purposes in lifting and depositing color
• Understanding the color wheel helps neutralize unwanted tones (blue cancels orange, purple neutralizes yellow)
• Individual factors like porosity, previous color history, medications, and minerals affect color results
• Strand tests are essential for predicting how hair will react to color and preventing disasters
Grab your free downloadable hair color science cheat sheet through this link to keep this information handy, whether you're behind the chair or in front of your mirror at home.
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