Episode Details

This is a mashup episode from the 2020 Climb Strong Training Camp. We talked about hangboard training, strength as a skill, climbing performance, takeaways from the training camp, and lessons learned from coaching athletes. Featuring: Chrissy Vadovszki, Jonathan Siegrist, Ken Klein, Carly Cain, Alex Bridgewater, Kathryn Perkinson, Charlie Manganiello, and Amanda Sempert.  

Support on Patreon:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing  

Show Notes:  

http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/climb-strong-team  

Nuggets:  

[Chrissy Vadovszki]  

1:37 – Introduction  

1:50 – Getting the team together and refreshing principles  

3:32 – Strength is safety, “the strongest person isn’t the best climber”, and prioritizing sending  

6:17  – Reflecting on the redpoint process, lessons from listening to Jonathan, and the vulnerability of second-tier projects  

8:41 – Definition of Second Tier routes  

9:21 – Paired exercises, and stoking the fire  

10:27 – Chrissy’s take on the value for participants  

[Jonathan Siegrist]  

12:13 – Introduction  

12:35 – Jonathan’s mountain biking crash, shoulder injury, and recovery  

19:04 – The goal is to clip chains, losing the plot, and getting to 100% try hard  

22:35 – Stacking the odds in his favor, some of Jonathan’s strategies for success, and removing pressure  

24:31 – Jonathan’s takeaways from the weekend  

[Ken Klein]  

26:12 – Introduction  

27:06 – Coffee for breakfast  

29:09 – “Climbing is magic.”  

30:57 – Why Ken thinks the word “impossible” gets used too much in climbing  

33:07 – We all experience the same feeling, and the satisfaction of seeing people try hard  

34:13 – Ken’s ‘perfect repeat’ drill he uses with newer climbers, and balancing repetition with trying harder moves  

38:09 – The One-Touch drill  

40:17 – Jonathan’s three-month breakdown  

41:52 – Rock sense, and a reminder to do more rock climbing  

44:16 – Hangboarding, 7:3, 7:13, and 6:10 repeaters, and max hangs  

48:27 – Hold size and crimping on the hangboard  

51:40 – Decreasing edge size vs. adding load  

52:05 – Strength repeaters vs. max hangs, and the four-burner stove  

54:59 – How Ken thinks about different fingerboard protocols depending on the climber and their goals  

56:53 – “Three steps forward one step back.”   

1:02:59 – Clarification about progressing hangboard sessions  

1:04:28 – Owning the weight  

[Carly Cain]  

1:05:54 – Introduction  

1:06:06 – Working with a 16-year-old girl at the training camp   

1:08:31 – Getting more comfortable with failing   

1:10:44 – Reframing  

1:12:08 – Learning to love bouldering  

1:13:05 – Life is a work in progress  

1:14:38 – Rifle!  

[Alex Bridgewater]  

1:15:58 – Introduction  

1:16:12 – One thing that holds us back, the importance of taking the steps, and pushing ourselves  

1:18:47 – Social media, “can’t”, and confidence  

1:19:48 – Carlo Traversi’s insight  

1:20:47 – Positivity  

1:22:14 – “Just go up there and try”, a becoming a better person  

1:23:59 – “To the death.”  

1:25:20 – Showing emotion, “Leave it up there”, and try hard  

[Kathryn Perkinson]  

1:27:37 – Introduction  

1:27:47 – Coffee for breakfast (again), fresh-baked bread, and breakfast moves  

1:28:40 – Moving to Lander, working with Steve as an athlete, and joining the coaching team  

1:30:06 – Philosophy  

1:30:43 – Participating in the training camp  

1:32:02 – Managing a finger injury as a coach  

1:33:02 – A helpful reminder  

1:34:08 – “We are all far more capable and mo