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#19 Starting Late — Risk, Reinvention, and Entering the Arena Anyway
Season 1 Episode 19
🌊"The biggest thing that impacts you when you first go out there, before I even surfed it, I just went out on a on a jet ski and sat there and watched, is the sound it makes when it breaks...its terrifying" 🏄🏽♀️
At the age of 59 years and 8 months, Conacher became the oldest person in the world to surf Maverick's 🌊, the "Mount Everest of surfing" 🏔️ one of the most challenging and dangerous surf breaks in the world, located near Half Moon Bay, California.
What makes Conacher's feat truly astonishing is the fact that he didn't start surfing until his 50s, wow! 🤯 Most accomplished big wave surfers start from a very young age, honing their skills over decades of experience. For Conacher to achieve this milestone at an age when most people are contemplating retirement is nothing short of extraordinary. 💪
Tune in for:
- Scene by scene account of what it takes to paddle into 30-40 foot waves 🌊🌊🌊, from an 'ordinary' surfer's point of view
- Training to survive hold-downs 20 feet under cold water 😫
- Finding balance with a grueling career as a Wall Street banker "plan your vacations first…"? 🏦💰
- Strategies on finding the perfect mentor / coach and community to fuel the journey 🧑🏫🧑🤝🧑
- Setting audacious goals, and the dedication and joy that follows 🎯😁
- Finally, my favorite, wear the 'Vulnerable Adult Learner' label with pride 👴🏄
References:
The Inertia: "How I Became the Oldest Person in the World to Surf Maverick’s for the First Time" by Lionel Conacher (March 29, 2023). Link to Article.
Bianca Valenti - Reknowned big wave surfer and Lionel's coach who prepared him for Mavericks Link to Website
Barbarian Days by William Finnegan: This Pulitzer Prize-winning memoir explores the author's lifelong passion for surfing and his experiences at various surf breaks around the world. Link to Book
BWRAG (Big Wave Risk Assessment Group): This organization provides safety training and education for big wave surfers. Link to Website
Patagonia PSI Vest: This inflatable vest is a crucial safety tool for big wave surfers, providing buoyancy in case of wipeouts and hold-downs. Link to Product
Surfline: This website provides surf forecasts, live cams, and other resources for surfers. Link to Website
Rob Case Paddle Surf: Rob Case is a renowned surf coach who offers instruction on paddling technique and pop-up mechanics. Link to Website
DMC Fins: Lionel mentioned this brand of surf helmets, which he wears for safety during his sessions. Link to Website
Maurten: This company offers a
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