Episode Details
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EP 199: Will Anglin & Matt Jones — A Masterclass in How to Progress Your Climbing
Description
Will Anglin returns and is joined by coach and trainer Matt Jones. This is one of the most valuable episodes I’ve ever recorded. It’s a GOLD MINE for anyone who wants to progress their climbing. Will and Matt provide clear and in-depth guidance for beginner, intermediate, and advanced climbers in this three-hour masterclass. If you feel stuck at a plateau or simply want to progress to the next level, don’t skip this episode!
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/will-and-matt
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro/Ads
(00:03:55) – Introducing to Matt Jones
(00:06:43) – The goal of this episode, and who it’s for
(00:09:20) – How we are defining beginner, intermediate, and advanced
(00:12:37) – Reminder about timestamps
(00:13:31) – Overview of core themes (skills and strength feedback loop, the four stages of competence, selecting training tools)
(00:20:24) – My first plateau in climbing, and helping people identify and address what they’re missing
--BEGINNER STARTS HERE--
(00:23:45) – Beginner | Overview
(00:23:45) – Gaining initial awareness, and meat suit competence
(00:25:53) – Beginner | Strong Not Good
(00:27:35) – The Hammer
(00:28:51) – Not everything is a nail
(00:30:00) – The hammeriest hammer Matt and Will have ever seen, and taking away the hammer
(00:34:06) – Beginner | Good Not Strong
(00:34:06) – The goal for the beginner climber overall is to diversify the toolset
(00:34:47) – The Stringbean (aka The Crowbar)
(00:36:18) – Overutilizing sneaky tricks, and adding constraints/rules to your climbing
(00:41:48) – Interventions for beginners
(00:46:35) – Identifying the low-hanging fruit
(00:47:40) – Beginner | Summary
(00:51:11) – Using climbing as a training intervention
(00:53:41) – Checking your ego
(00:55:27) – Building strength and skill at the same time through climbing
--INTERMEDIATE STARTS HERE--
(00:59:06) – Intermediate | Overview
(00:59:06) – Exiting the beginner stage, and learning to quantify your progress beyond grades
(01:01:42) – “Oh no, now what?!”
(01:03:22) – The logarithmic aspect of climbing the grade scale, and the room for growth as a climber
(01:05:24) – My ex