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EP 194: Will Anglin — Why We Should Treat Climbing Like Baseball, and the #1 Thing All Climbers Should Do
Description
Will Anglin is an expert boulderer and the founder of Tension Climbing. I love the way this guy thinks, and there are many nuggets in this episode. We talked about the key principles of climbing hard, the most common confusion points about training for climbing, why we should treat climbing like baseball, the number one thing all climbers should do, the evolution of Tension, why it took 10+ years to develop the Tension Board 2 (TB2), why every detail matters when building a new product, and much more!
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/will-anglin
Nuggets:
0:00:00 – Intro/Ads
0:05:06 – Eggs and espresso
0:06:55 – Focus on protein to save mental energy
0:09:49 – Cat litter
0:10:56 – Two main topics I want to cover with Will
0:13:06 – An email I sent Will in 2015, and why I transitioned away from the Anderson brothers’ way of training
0:17:49 – Will’s early climbing, youth competitions, wanting to be strong, and getting into training
0:26:28 – Will’s first time deep water soloing at Summersville Lake
0:27:57 – Trad climbing in the Black Canyon
0:31:26 – Pivoting to bouldering, and the bouldering vs. sport climbing in Colorado
0:35:56 – Why Will has spent more time developing boulders than sport climbs, and why people chip routes
0:40:02 – Chipping in bouldering, and suspending your disbelief
0:47:09 – Why the “best way to train” is not a useful concept
0:54:26 – Why it doesn’t make sense to copy the pros
0:55:48 – The baseball analogy
0:59:04 – Why your hangboarding should change over the course of your climbing career
1:00:13 – Working on skills at sub-maximal intensity, and learning to connect training with rock climbing skill development
1:03:44 – “Keep the goal the goal.” - Dan John
1:05:19 – The best climbers are the most adaptable climbers
1:09:01 – Will’s ‘Hangboarding: A Way’ article, and the most common confusion points and questions that Will gets about advice he’s given in the past
1:10:59 – Why you shouldn’t take time away from your climbing time to do more strength training
1:14:48 – It’s normal to fail on climbs that are easier than your max redpoint grade
1:17:04 – Why I started seeking out more “basic” power climbs, and how modern training is affecting outdoor bouldering grades
1:19:37 – How styles and grades evolve over time
1:24:15 – “The concept of a well-rounded climber moves.”
1:25:52 – Why people used to say Joe’s Valley is soft, and how gym climbing shapes