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EP 153: Ollie Torr — The Secret to Finger Strength, How to Climb Like Aidan Roberts, and Staying on the Bus
Description
Ollie Torr is an ex-gymnast, high-end rock climber, and co-founder of Lattice Training. We went deep in this conversation and covered Ollie’s top exercises for different types of climbers, how to climb more like Aidan Roberts, how to find your own superpowers and become a specialist, the secret to finger strength, balancing strength and fitness, overtraining vs. under recovering, taking action is six-week blocks, and much more!
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/ollie-torr
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:06:00) – Update on my bicep tendon injury and recovery
(00:09:55) – Ollie’s work with the GB Judo team on grip strength and injury recovery
(00:14:25) – Ollie’s thoughts on the final stage of recovering from an injury
(00:20:33) – My introduction to Lattice in 2016, and Ollie’s funny story about his first interview on Training Beta
(00:23:00) – Perfectionism, paralysis by analysis, and action breeds motivation and progression
(00:26:06) – “What got me here won’t get me there.”
(00:28:35) – Plans for a round two! Stay tuned for a listener Q&A!
(00:32:00) – Assessments, and gathering information from new clients
(00:39:54) – The key metrics that Lattice assesses with new clients
(00:46:10) – Flexibility testing for climbers
(00:49:59) – Trying to figure out what works for yourself and your body as an athlete, and Ollie’s process of examining movement, joint, and action
(00:56:25) – Coaching Aidan Roberts, Aidan’s approach to training for Isles of Wonder Sit (V16/8C+ FA), and the value of combining strength movements with replica training
(01:00:29) – Vacuum climbing, how to climb more like Aidan Roberts, and training with Toby Roberts
(01:13:24) – Specializing vs. working on weaknesses and rounding out your style, and finding your superpower
(01:21:00) – Limbic friction
(01:22:13) – What Ollie learned from Tom Randall, and training to “pass the exam”
(01:30:20) – Exercises for people who struggle with narrow climbing
(01:39:31) – Key exercises for all climbers
(01:43:43) – Dorsi flexion (ankle) test you can do at home
(01: