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Episode 84: Guest Marion Fasel
Description
Join JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates for a talk with jewelry historian and author Marion Fasel, founder and editorial director of the website The Adventurine. They cover her unlikely introduction into the industry; her writing partnership with Penny Proddow; her history with InStyle magazine, the story behind her newest book, B is for Bulgari; her exhibition at the American Museum of Natural History, and her path into curation.
Show Notes
02:17 Victoria and Rob welcome their guest, Marion Fasel
03:30 The trio recalls late jewelry designer Daniel Brush
07:47 Marion shares her unexpected start in the jewelry world
11:52 Marion talks about her longtime collaboration with Penny Proddow
15:17 Making a connection with InStyle
19:46 Working with Bulgari
22:15 Curating Beautiful Creatures
25:00 Telling a story through curation
25:32 The Adventurine
26:20 The most exciting new trend in jewelry
Episode Credits
Hosts: Rob Bates and Victoria Gomelsky
Producer and engineer: Natalie Chomet
Plugs: The Adventurine @jckmagazine, jckonline.com
Show Recap
Remembering Daniel Brush
Victoria and Rob ask Marion to share memories of jewelry designer Daniel Brush, who passed away in November 2022. Marion describes him as an extraordinary talent and intellect who became a cult hero in the jewelry world for reviving methods from the distant past such as granulation.
Marion’s Unlikely Start
After graduating from New York University, Marion took a summer job with jewelry collector Ralph Ismerian in 1989, entering data about his collection into a computer, a new approach to archiving at the time. Her “short-term” job lasted 25 years and led to her writing partnership with jewelry historian Penny Proddow. “At that time, Ralph’s collection was considered one of the greatest of the 20th century. There was a lot of artistry to the pieces, so I came at it like an art historian because I had studied art history.”
Partnering With Penny Proddow
Like Marion, Penny Proddow joined Ralph Ismerian as a new college grad, while also working for Christie’s. Marion calls Penny’s specialty “the detective work of jewelry history,” finding the sources of inspiration and cultural influences that led to specific pieces and trends. Penny and Marion collaborated on the book Hollywood Jewels, the first of many books they co-wrote.
The InStyle Era
In the early 1990s, jewelry coverage in consumer magazines was scant. So when InStyle featured Elizabeth Taylor’s jewels, Marion and Penny wrote a letter to the founding editor complimenting the article. This connection led to the pair becoming regular InStyle contributors. Their first article covered the 1996 Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis jewelry auction at Sotheby’s. Readers and advertisers responded, and soon InStyle was giving Marion and Penny up to 16 pages per issue to write about jewelry.
Flash forward to today: Consumer magazines have changed dramatically. Gone is the in-depth jewelry coverage Marion remembers from the heyday of print publishing. Rob mentions consumer magazines devoted to watches, but Marion considers this a different market; its largely male audience conside