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EP 136: Dan Varian — High Angle Crimps, Silver Bullets in Finger Strength, and How to Activate Lazy Fingers
Description
Dan Varian is an elite boulderer from the UK and the cofounder of Beastmaker. We talked about a finger strength test that Dan had me do, how to measure the load distribution across our fingers, silver bullets in finger strength, how to activate lazy fingers, why Dan is focusing his training on high angle crimps, his recommendations for me, and wrist training for Fontainebleau.
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/dan-varian
Nuggets:
0:08:04 – Building dens out of cushions
0:10:36 – Dan’s resume
0:13:12 – Moving from Sheffield, playing the training game with his limited time, and detail over vagueness
0:18:05 – How the strength flows through your hand, and the starting point of people’s training
0:19:06 – Climbing as a fledgling sport, having plenty of room to improve our training quality, and Dan and Aidan’s attention to detail
0:20:33 – The value of training with like-minded people, and the many different rock types in the UK
0:23:28 – Blunderbus vs rifle, and mentoring Aidan Roberts
0:26:40 – Aidan’s pinkie strength, and why the sling test is a valuable assessment tool
0:32:36 – Who Adian is, and an introduction to high angle crimps
0:35:49 – Silver bullets in finger strength, and specializing in specific styles
0:39:25 – Clarification of the high angle crimp position
0:41:34 – The sling test, and my takeaways from my results
0:45:24 – Dan’s interpretation of my results, and my two lazy fingers which are lacking silver bullets
0:49:07 – My goals as they relate to finger training
0:52:32 – My climbing background and how that explains my results
0:55:36 – A pinkie mono demonstration from Dan
0:59:23 – Three-finger drag, wrist movement, and different grip positions for different rock types and routes vs. boulders
1:03:28 – What Dan thinks I should focus on with my finger strength for sport climbing
1:04:29 – Summary of the takeaways from my finger testing, and Dan’s guesses about my climbing based on the numbers
1:07:09 – My pinkie in the half crimp
1:10:02 – How to activate lazy fingers on the hangboard, and why the Beastmaker hangboards look the way they do
1:12:35 – Dan’s strength on three-finger drag, why it doesn’t apply to small crimpy holds and boulders, and how we are all working on our own things
1:14:56 – Dan’s advice for me to strengthen my pinkies and middle fingers
1:17:37 – How my finger strength compares to